Birding in Arfak

Arfak is broadly known as a birding area. If we googling “Birding in Arfak” you may find a bunch list of stories or even tour operators that offer their birding trip to Arfak. Not just an ordinary birder who may lay their steps in Arfak I may say, but one with special interest and possess a true heart of birder. Birding is more about passion accompanied by patience and determination. It has to be fun. First thing to remember, it is not easy to get into Arfak (only accessible by the 4WD car type). However, the endemic yet phenomenal birds and unspoiled forest make Arfak special.

We left for Manokwari in the morning using Garuda Indonesia Airlines from Sorong. Manokwari is the only stop, a proper place to spend a night in and to get prepared for before heading to Arfak the next day. Manokwari is the last place where we can buy supplies and arrange a transport to Arfak. For transport we can either rent a car or try our luck at Terminal Wosi. Since we were in a group with supplies for at least a week we decided to rent a 4 WD car which cost 1 million to Maibrig area; 1,2 million to Kwau area; and 1,5 million to Syoubri area (choose your destination and you get the price). For this trip, we managed to get into Maibrig. The positive side of Maibrig is the birds locations. They are relatively close each other and not far from the village. The backward is the homestay. It is just right on the side of the main road. Not the one as we expected but it is more than enough for the moment.

 

Pic 1. The only access to Arfak

We feel so lucky to have a chance to step in Arfak for birding. As part of our work assignment, we want to use this opportunity to at least educate ourselves about birds in the highland of Arfak, hopefully can think and do more for our conservation plan in Arfak as a follow up. We didn’t hope much this time since this would be our first birding in this unique area. I myself am not really a birder nor my colleagues Pak Fiktor and Bu Ayati. I consider myself as a nature hike addict. My other colleague, Dwi Suryana, is a good birder. Nevertheless, this will be his first time birding in a highland, in Arfak. That means none of us is familiar with the birds in Arfak. Those facts make this trip unpredictable and yet so exciting.

Trip to Arfak is costly and be prepared for unexpected events and some challenges. These may be the result of the nature of Arfak (a mountain with funny road with simple homestay and limited supplies) and the nature of birding (weather, the bird characteristics). All in all influence the arrangement of the trip. Just an advice, whatever challenges and unexpected event may rise, don’t let them ruin your Arfak trip since Arfak offers more than just bird specialties but also pretty much beautiful landscape!

Pic 2. Arfak!

Our routine is get ready early in the morning (could be as early as 3 am), get ready for a long and uphill battle walk during the day, be ready to compose yourself everytime you encounter unexpected things, and be patience and keep silent while birding. And you may get a well worthy reward afterwards, which is your bird target!

We have list of bird target. Our highlights are Magnificent BoP, Black Sicklebill, Arfak Astrapia, Western Parotia, Long-tailed Paradigalla, Lesser BoP, Superb BoP, Vogelkop Bowerbird, and Mask Bowerbird. We found later since our first day that the birds displaying time in the highland is slightly different from the one in the lowland. As one taught for lowland, we were a bit surprised and need to adjust ourselves. Most birds’ display time is around 6-8 am and 1-3 pm unless the Magnificent BoP, Western Parotia and Vogelkop Bowerbird. Those three birds can be seen all day long, of course still depend on the weather and on your luck. The most challenging and exhausting one is Black Sicklebill! He is just a WoW. can’t be described by any easy words! He lives up in the highest mountain, he plays only around 6 am. And he is not easy to spot. A good timing in a right place is compulsory. He is just the treasure among all!

Pic 3. Magnificent BoP	Pic 4. Vogelkop Bowerbird
Pic 5. Western Parotia	Pic 6. Mating ground of Vogelkop Bowerbird

 

At last, we found most of our bird target unless Arfak Astrapia. As have been said before, we feel blessed to be able to witness these fabulous God’s creatures in the just right before our eyes. For certain, there is no room for complain. While there are rooms for excitements and for sure there are rooms for involvements to keep the area intact; for the sake of the marvelous birds, for the sake of the majestic landscape, and for the sake of the purity of the people. Arfak is Splendid! Birding in Arfak is Precious!

List of Birds found in Arfak during our trip

No	Indonesian	English	Latin	Status
				IUCN	CITES	RI
1	Anis-papua kecil	Lesser Ground-Robin	Amalocichla incerta	LC	–	NP
2	Atoku besar	Feline Owlet Nightjar	Aegotheles imsignis	LC	–	NP
3	Burung-buah dada-kuning	Mid Mountain Berrypecker	Melanocharis longicauda	LC	–	NP
4	Cabai papua	Olive crowned Flowerpecker	Dicaeum pectorale	LC	–	NP
5	Cendrawasih belah-rotan	Magnificent Bird-of-Paradise	Dyphyllodes magnificus	LC	App. II	P
6	Cendrawasih kecil	Lesser Bird-of-Paradise	Paradisaea minor	LC	App.II	P
7	Cendrawasih kerah	Superb Bird-of-Paradise	Lophorina superba	LC	App. II	P
8	Cucak-pisau dada-hitam	Black breasted Boatbill	Machaerirrhynchus nigripectus	LC	–	NP
9	Cucuk-panjang kate	Spectacled Longbill	Oedistoma iliolophus	LC	–	P
10	Delimukan pomo	Cinnamon Ground-Dove	Gallicolumba rufigula	LC	–	NP
11	Elang-alap mantel-hitam	Black-mantled Goshawk	Accipiter melanochlamys	LC	App. II	P
12	Isap-madu paruh-panjang	Long-billed Honeyeater	Melilestes megarhynchus	LC	–	P
13	Isap-madu tutul	Spotted Honeyeater	Xanthotis polygrammus	LC	–	P
14	Julang papua	Blyth’s Hornbill	Rhyticeros plicatus	LC	App.  II	P
15	Kacamata dahi-hitam	Black-crowned White-Eye	Zosterops atrifons	LC	–	NP
16	Kakatua koki	Sulphur-crested Cockatoo	Cacatua galerita	LC	App. II	P
17	Kancilan kelabu	Grey Whistler	Pachycephala simplex	LC	–	NP
18	Kancilan obuhai	Regent Whistler	Pachycephala schlegelli	LC	–	NP
19	Kancilan sclater	Sclater Whistler	Pachycephala soror	LC	–	NP
20	Kapasan alis-hitam	Black browed Triller	Lalage atrovirens	LC	–	NP
21	Kicuit batu	Grey Wagtail	Motacilla cinerea	LC	–	NP
22	Kipasan hitam	Black Fantail	Rhipidura atra	LC	–	NP
23	Maleo gunung	Wattled Brushturkey	Aepypodius arfakianus	LC	–	P
24	Mandar-gunung koma	Chestnut Forest-rail	Rallicula rubra	LC	–	NP
25	Melipaga rimba	Forest Honeyeater	Meliphaga montana	LC	–	P
26	Melipotes pipi-kuning	Common Smoky Honeyeater	Melipotes fumigatus	LC	–	P
27	Merpati-gunung papua	Papuan mountain Pigeon	Gymnophaps albertisi	LC	–	NP
28	Myzomela hitam-merah	Red Collared Myzomela	Myzomela rosenbergii	LC	–	P
29	Namdur api	Masked Bowerbird	Sericulus aureus	LC	–	P
30	Namdur polos	Vogelkop Bowerbird	Amblyornis inornata	LC	–	P
31	Nuri kalung-ungu	Blue collared Parrot	Geoffroyus simplex	LC	App. II	NP
32	Paradigalla ekor-panjang	Long-tailed Paradigalla	Paradigalla carunculata	NT	App. II	P
33	Parotia arfak	Western Parotia	Parotia sefilata	LC	App. II	P
34	Paruh-sabit kurikuri	Black Sicklebill	Epimachus fastuosus	VU	App. II	P
35	Perkici josephina	Josephine’s Lorikeet	Charmosyna josefinae	LC	App. II	NP
36	Perkici papua	Papuan Lorikeet	Charmosyna papou	LC	App. II	NP
37	Perkici paruh-kuning	Yellow billed Lorikeet	Neopsittacus musschenbroekii	LC	App. II	NP
38	Perkici punggung-hitam	Fairy Lorikeet	Charmosyna pulchella	LC	App. II	NP
39	Pitohui hitam	Black Pitohui	Pitohui nigrescens	LC	–	NP
40	Pitohui kepala-hitam	Hooded Pitohui	Pitohui dichrous	LC	–	NP
41	Punggok rimba	Papuan Boobook	Ninox theomacha	LC	App. II	NP
42	Remetuk tunggir-hijau	Green-backed Gerygone	Gerygone chloronota	LC	–	NP
43	Robin badut	Ashy Robin	Heteromyias albispecularis	LC	–	NP
44	Robin biru-abu	Blue-grey Robin	Paneothello cyanus	LC	–	NP
45	Robin hijau	Green-backed Robin	Pachycephalopsis hattamensis	LC	–	NP
46	Robin kelabu	Smoky Robin	Paneothello cryptology	LC	–	NP
47	Serak hitam	Sooty Owl	Tyto tenebricosa	LC	App. II	NP
48	Sericornis kecil	Tropical Scrubwren	Sericornis beccari	LC	–	NP
49	Sericornis paruh-putih	Pale-billed Scrubwren	Sericornis spilodera	LC	–	NP
50	Tepus-tikus gunung	Mountain Mouse-Warbler	Crateroscelis robusta	LC	–	NP
51	Uncal paruh-hitam	Black-billed Cuckoo-Dove	Macropygia nigrirostris	LC	–	NP
52	Walet sapi	Glossy Swiftlet	Collocalia esculenta	LC	–	NP

Note:

LC           : Least Concern

NT          : Near Threathened

VU          : Vulnerable

App.II    : Appendix II

P             : Protected

NP          : Not Protected

Areas for birding

There are several places for birding in Arfak. Regarded as the oldest (since 1992) and so the most well-known with the best reputation is Syoubri. Pak Zeth is the guide. But other areas as Kwau and Maibrig are not less interesting either. The last two areas are guided by Pak Hans. Pak Hans is also arranged a trip to another birding site called Mupi Gunung. Just if you want to go deep in the forest, Syoubri with their German camp and Mupi gunung are the best option.

Things to bring

Sleeping bag, binocular (recommended Swarovski), long sleeve, long pants, torch, jacket, insect repellant, food (bring extra for your porter that may be more than arranged), blankets.

Cost to pay (in thousand rupiah)

Guide                                                    : 400/day

Room                                                    : 200/day/person in Syoubri and

   100/day/person in Kwau and Maibrig

Cook                                                      : 125/day/cook

Worker/porter                                        : 125/day/worker

Firewood                                                : 50/bundle

Village contribution                                : 50/day/visitor

Local supplies (vegetables, oil)             : depend on the negotiation

Acknowledgment: BBKSDA Papua Barat that makes this work possible; Photographer: Dwi Suryana, Taufik Haryanto; Narrator: Taufik Haryanto